It is not difficult to use a fish finder to identify fish, although it requires some experience and some getting used to it. The first thing to do after purchasing a fish finder is clear- Read the Guide! The manual may not be exciting or may have more technical information than you’re interested in reading, but how important it is to read the manual to familiarize yourself with the unit you’ve purchased can not be stressed enough.
The next thing to do is have your fish finder installed. Whether you’re using a transom mount, a trolling motor mount, a hull mount or a portable mount, your tutorial should require you to walk through the steps to install your model correctly. If in doubt, consult with a professional or have it mounted for you.Link view publisher site
You are now able to turn your fish finder on and plan to capture more rays. When you turn on the unit for the first time, it will be in automatic mode, meaning the pre-programmed settings are in use. As you become more familiar with your model, you can switch to manual mode and customize the settings according to the fishing conditions that you are experiencing. Leave the fish finder on automatic to begin with and take a five minute spin around the lake, bay or ocean you are fishing in. Constantly watch the display to get a feel for what you are seeing. Don’t think about capturing fish or having to grasp anything on show. Experience should come with that.
Now continue to change one feature at a time and become comfortable with the functionality. The Sensitivity function is one of the main settings to mess around with. When you adjust the sensitivity of the unit you are adjusting the fish finder ‘s power. The basic rule of thumb is that the lower the power (sensitivity) on show, the better the image quality. Experts agree that the sensitivity should be set at 75 to 100%. The easiest way to evaluate the optimum environment for your layout is by trial and error.
The next environment to use is Fish ID configuration in manual mode. Until you have a feel for your device, turn off the Fish ID option and try to get used to reading the arches of fish you can see on the computer naturally. The fish icons displayed by the Fish ID are useful for true beginners, but it’s better to learn how to read the natural fish arches once you start familiarizing yourself with the display. The fish arches provide you with a more precise view of what’s under water.
Another feature, Auto Depth, is best used when you start using your fishfinder at its pre-programmed setting. Using the pre-programmed configuration would instruct the machine to monitor the bottom automatically, and is better used when utilizing sonar as fresh. You will adjust the upper and lower limits of the view window manually, when you become something of an expert. The smaller you set the display window the better the resolution will be. In general, the top few feet of water are eliminated by expert anglers, and the scan stops about ten feet below the true base. Naturally the depth of the show window can change based on how deep the water is and what kind of fish you are trying to capture. Experiment with the size of the display window until you are at ease with both the amount of water you can see and the resolution of the image.